Tuesday, August 26, 2008

A Week in Bridgehampton

We spent a great week at the shore with family enjoying blue skies and incredible cloud formations, hot days and cool nights, and a warm ocean. Days were filled with biking, swimming, sunning, and reading followed by outdoor showers and great meals! I even squeezed in a couple of naps.

Since I believe in getting things off my chest quickly and moving on, I'll start with one of our two meals out.

I thought that it would be a good idea to head to World Pie on a Monday night in Bridgehampton. We had picked up Thibault on Saturday on East End Avenue near Gracie Mansion and had driven directly to the shore for a week’s vacation but still hadn’t quite regrouped as a family of four after his 8 weeks North. I thought that it would be quiet on a Monday. No one told me that it was Moms-take-as-many-children-under-six-as-you-can-gather and-their-nannies-out-for-dinner night. Mothers and young daughters alike had long tangled hair, sun dresses and metallic sandals. The nannies were not as flashy but enjoyed wine at the table with the crew, dealing with their young charges while the Moms busied themselves with their iPhones. Did I mention that the kids were a combination of terribly spoiled, over-dressed in designer kiddie apparel and frighteningly sophisticated? There were very few men in the crowd and oddly, the children were overwhelmingly girls. I took Nora to the restroom which was also overrun with them, two to a stall! More were roaming unattended through the outdoor dining space, including a child named “Gracie” who crawled under our chairs a few times to access the back yard area where she climbed onto another chair and pounded her little entitled fists on the window of the dining room. One or two times an adult appeared and sighed, “Gracie,” only to disappear again.

I almost forgot! World Pie is a restaurant. It was so distracting that I almost neglected to mention the food which is okay, and the pizza, which is pretty darn good. It was really far better than that. And our long-suffering Lithuanian waiter was top notch and made me laugh when he caught my eye and said that usually he needs at least two martinis before coming work.




We had three salads to start with. Nora had fresh mozzarella with tomatoes and pesto dressing, something she was recently turned onto. Thibault had the Caesar Salad and Sylvain opted for radicchio, endive and arugula. I nibbled here and there. Nora adored hers but I thought that they were all just okay. When you are used to eating only local produce all summer, the mass-produced stuff trucked in from afar just doesn't cut it. With the explosion of small farms on the East End now and a great organic movement, there just isn’t any excuse to serve anything else!

For main courses we ordered three small thin crust pizzas – one plain, one Puttanesca and one shrimp with roasted red peppers. All were excellent, especially my choice of Puttanesca. Remember that Pasta Puttanesca is supposedly “whore’s pasta,” made quickly in the ten minutes or so between clients - chopped anchovies, black olives, capers, garlic and parsley. It translated well to pizza and the proportions were just right and enhanced the pie and rather than overwhelmed it. Yum!



We devoured our wonderful pies, paid our substantial Hamptons bill and got the heck out of there. We’ll come back for the food and the service but I’m afraid we’ll have to wait until it is off-season.

We had much better luck on our second night out, as I knew we would, at La Fondita, a family favorite. The food is excellent, the setting is fun and unpretentious. Food is ordered at the counter and then taken to picnic tables scattered across the lawn near a neighboring garden center. The grounds are fun to roam while waiting for food and kids love exploring the forest of giant bamboo.

I tried the pollo tostada, a corn tortilla filled with shredded chicken, refried beans, lettuce, pico de gallo, queso fresco and crema, and the elote con mayonesa y queso, corn on the cob slathered with mayo and coated with fresh cheese and chili powder. Both were excellent washed down with an icy Negra Modelo! Sylvain reveled in his tongue taco appetizer. I still am not sure if he orders it because he actually likes it or to see people's reactions. It's probably a bit of both.


When we go to Bridgehampton for summer vacation each year with extended family, more often than not the best meals are those we make at home. They are pure and uncomplicated and usually feature grilled meat or fish accompanied by grilled vegetables, corn on the cob and various salads. Over the course of the week we enjoyed t-bone steak, Griggstown Farm chicken sausages, monkfish, tuna and lemon-marinated chicken on the grill.

Side dishes included heirloom tomato salad, tomato and mozzarella salad, mixed greens with sesame dressing, grilled summer squash and eggplant, and an amazing salad that Thibault cooked up of artichoke hearts, beans, red peppers and zucchini!

In spite of the intense development of the Hamptons and in fierce defiance of it (or perhaps because of the demands of the people behind it), a growing movement of local farmers growing organic produce, making artisanal cheeses and raising livestock has been steadily growing over the years. As a result, there are some great area farm stands. Our local favorites are the Pike Farm and the Mecox Bay Dairy stands. Also, the Saturday morning Sag Harbor Farmer's Market has small but broad selection. We picked up a bag of beautiful Satur Farm mesclun with bright orange nastursium blossoms and a box of miniature Japanese lemon cucumbers the size of olives at their stand. We also bought some tiny yellow pleurotus grown in Bridgehampton by David Falkowski and a wedge of local cheddar from Arthur Ludlow of Mecox Bay Dairy. An amazing lunch resulted! Of course prices are high but so is the cost of farming on the East End.

One morning Dad, Thibault and I set out early to beat the crowds at Loaves and Fishes. I had read in Edible East End that Anna Pump, my former boss, had a new cookbook out and anyway, we needed some pies.

The simple white-washed space was unchanged since my long ago summers working there and some of the classic original salads remained joined now by more recent additions. Pies were just being pulled steaming from the ovens and set on the sill behind the counter. A clever idea as Dad observed. We selected a blueberry and a peach-blackberry. We also bought a couple of baguettes, also still warm from the oven, and three copies of “Summer on a Plate” which Anna graciously signed for us. One of the baguettes made it home, the other we finished off in the car between the three of us. That night many of us agreed that the pies were the best we had ever sampled.


Seeing Anna and revisiting my culinary past reminded me of her role in the direction my life later took. Even though she was a no-nonsense boss and I didn’t much like her at the time, I loved the hours I spent working in her kitchen for the summers of 1981 and 1982. I appreciate now what I learned from Anna about food, cooking, dealing with difficult customers and running a business. Now that I think of it, after my mother she was the first in a long line of women who instructed me in “cuisine de femme.” Another was the infamous Martine who I worked for in Corsica and oddly enough had run into at the Sag Harbor Farmer's Market in July.

I biked to work those summers to start the day at 7 a.m. Thursday to Monday. In spite of the early start to the day, I was out most nights and would get a ride to the beach for a swim during my lunch hour. I’d head again to the beach after work. I had a job, a great social life, and was living completely independently at the beach. If I had complaints, they are forgotten! The pleasures I get from time spent in Bridgehampton have clearly evolved over the years since my childhood and young adulthood, but it will always hold a special place in my heart. The trick is focusing on what is still wonderful and valued and blocking out the distracting noise of Maseratis, Lamborghinis and Ferraris.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Official Ice Cream Survey Part II: Maine



Nora has returned from a rainy but ice cream-filled week in the Deering section of Portland, Maine and the moment has come to post the results of Part II. Thanks go to Clara for her detailed notes, to Nora for her documentary photographs and Maeve for her dedication to finding the perfect cone. The girl's first stop was Jet Video, the local post office, video store and ice cream parlor that features Gifford's ice cream. Couldn't we all use a place like that? The girls both went for a flavor called Mississippi Mud (coffee ice cream with a fudge swirl and crumbled chocolate cookies) with Maeve adding some chocolate moose tracks to hers (a Maine favorite with chocolate ice cream, Reese's cups and fudge). According to Clara, Jet Video has the biggest, cheapest "kiddie cone" around. This stuff got the highest rating of "marvelous" for creaminess and "great" marks for cone, texture, and sweetness (no toppings were needed) for an average of 1.8.


Next in line was Maple's Organics, the local gelato maker (again, I think we need a "local gelato maker" in Lebanon Township). This was so good that they actually got it twice - this first time at Whole Foods. The girls loved the creaminess of the gelato (marvelous apparently). Nora had chocolate and Maeve had chocolate plus some raspberry sorbet. Creaminess was again "marvelous" and marks were in the "great" range for everything else for an average of 1.75. For the second tasting, they went to the company store where Nora had vanilla chocolate fudge caramel swirl (whew!) and Maeve had the same with a scoop of milk chocolate orange thrown in - what a combo. The creaminess this time dropped off a bit to a still-respectable 1.5, but the cone was merely "good" (Clara says that they have home-made cones that really taste like waffles but thinks we're all too used to the mass-produced kind). "Marvelous" marks for texture brought the average score to a "great" 2. Final comnined score from two tastings: 1.8

The last stop on this leg of the Official Survey to sample the Smiling Hill Farm product. Clara says that this is fabulous ice cream produced by a local dairy. They bought some at a stand next to the local pizza place, Sian's, where everyone got their own pizzas and watched a kid being trained to make them. Nora ordered a dish of rainbow sherbet and Maeve got a chocolate cone. The creaminess was a 1.5 and everything else rated "great" across the boards for an overall score of 1.8.

The results of the Official Ice Cream Survey Part II? Wait just a minute. How can it be?! Is a three-way even tie possible?! Has someone tampered with the results?! Is all Maine ice cream approaching truly marvelous?! Apparently it is. The experts have spoken.

Next stop: The Hamptons

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Friday in Frenchtown

Since there was only one slim day before our week alone was to end, we decided that it was time to finally take off from work to take advantage of the situation! We headed south to Frenchtown to do some wandering, eat a bite of lunch and spend the afternoon tubing down the Delaware. Our first stop was Two Buttons, a warehouse hidden away in a former industrial zone beyond "no trespassing" and "private property" signs, on the edge of town. The shop is owned by Elizabeth Gilbert, author of "Eat, Pray, Love," and her husband Jose. Yes, they get married in the end and open up an import business in Frenchtown, N.J. It is a wonderful bazaar of mostly Asian imports. We left with many ideas but only one purchase - a $5 back scratcher for Thibault.

For lunch we decided not to do the Bridge Cafe. We've been there many times over the years and it was quite full. Sylvain wasn't interested in Mexican at Cocina del Sol (though I was) so I suggested the "diner." It looked very inviting and there were a couple of empty tables so we went in.




Why haven't we ever eaten here?! It was very charming (in spite of a tattered seat in our booth -file that under pet peeves), the service was great and diner-speedy and the food was wonderful. I had the Cajun Tilapia Po' Boy special served with roasted garlic and basil mayonnaise, sliced tomatoes and mixed greens on a Kaiser roll with fries and an enormous glass of lemonade. So good! Sylvain enjoyed a chicken and artichoke sandwich on thick sesame semolina bread with an equally enormous iced tea. The menu was a crowd-pleasing combination of diner classics and more sophisticated fare all reasonably priced. I usually feel that diners should stick to what they know - usually it is a big mistake when they try to get fancy - but the Frenchtown Cafe is clearly not in over their heads when they move beyond omelets and Greek salad. We'll be back there soon.



Afterwards, perhaps in response to the magnetic effect of the word "chocolate" painted on the window, we were drawn across the street to a place called Minette's Candies. We sampled Creme Brulee and Tiramisu truffles and picked up some retro candy items like flying saucers filled with sour powder and my beloved Zotz for the kids.

The clouds were starting to look a bit ominous so we took our goody bag and drove over to the tubing outpost in Point Pleasant, PA. and spent the rest of the afternoon floating down the Delaware in inner tubes.

http://www.elizabethgilbert.com/eatpraylove.htm

http://www.twobuttons.com/

http://www.frenchtown.com/

http://www.rivercountry.net/

Monday, August 4, 2008

Seventeen Hours in Maine!

My stiff back tells me that it really did happen. We left Saturday a.m. for Maine, delivered Nora, and were home again by mid afternoon on Sunday. What is the matter with us?! The answer may be better suited to a blog on another subject: "My Issues?" I'll try to stick closely to food.

The drive was extremely boring, so much so that I threatened to fine Nora $1 for each time she uttered the b-word. In fact, apparently it was the number one most boring day of her entire life. To break the monotony and to get off the highway after a painful passage through the New Hampshire tolls, we exited at Portsmouth. Plus it was time for lunch! I had gone online an had retrieved the names of a couple of seafood shack-type establishments but neglected to print-out phone numbers or directions. Somehow I figured that they would be easy to find in the small coastal towns. Well they weren't. We loved the narrow lanes of historic Portsmouth but ended up having panini sandwiches at the Chef's Cove Cafe on Wallingford Square in nearby Kittery. We all enjoyed our selections; mine had mozzarella, tomato and pesto, Sylvain's ham, cheese and tomato and Nora's was just plain cheese. We left well-sated, a bit less bored, and ready to continue on our way.

After our arrival and settling in, we all headed downtown to wander around a bit but mostly to pick up the lobsters for dinner at the famous Harbor Fish Market. What an emporium of beautiful, glistening fresh fish and shellfish! This place has been around for 40 years and does a brisk business. Our lobsters were steamed and ready to eat, packed in a special insulated box. We happily devoured them back at the house with green beans, garlic cheese bread and potato chips (some kind of fancy New England tradition) accompanied by nice cold beers! By the time we had finished we had completely forgotten the long drive.


Dessert was brownies and whoopie pies from the Big Sky Bakery down the hill. Those whoopie pies put the ones from the Flemington Amish Market to shame (sorry). Then again, I don't think I've ever had them from anywhere else until now. All in all, it was great to be with Clara and Dan, even for such a brief moment. Next time we'll plan ahead, stay longer and have more great meals to talk about.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Official Summer Ice Cream Survey Part I: New Jersey



Maeve recently spent a week with us in New Jersey to attend art camp with Nora at the Visual Arts Center. The girls share many things in addition to the special relationship that only cousins have. One of those things is a deep love of ice cream. I proposed that they taste-test ice cream at various locations in the area during the week and I would publish the results on my new blog. Though pre-adolescent, they found nothing to object to in this plan!

Ice cream was evaluated for creaminess, cone, texture, sweetness and toppings and rated based on the following scale:

1=marvelous
2=great
3=good
4=okay
5=poor

Our first stop was the new Home Plate Dairy on Route 57 in Stewartsville (former home of Custard's Last Stand, an entrepreneurial ice cream establishment that switched to deer processing in the winter months). Home Plate came highly recommended by Rachel and Gardner but could it pass muster with true experts in the field? Nora had a chocolate and vanilla twist in a wafer cone and Maeve had a twist in a waffle cone with chocolate crunch sprinkles. It became immediately clear that these were some tough critics. The overall score for Home Plate was only a 2.8/good with the highest marks a pair of twos for texture and sweetness.


The next stop was Ricky's on Springfield Avenue in Summit where Nora sampled Cake Batter ice cream in a cup with M&Ms, whipped cream and chocolate syrup and Maeve went for Rocky Road with whipped cream in a waffle cone. Ricky's has a free toppings bar and clearly they have cornered that market earning them a top score of 1/marvelous for both toppings and sweetness. "Okay" marks for the cone brought the total score to 2.2/great, sadly shy of the coveted "marvelous" ranking.


The last stop in Part 1 of this exhaustive survey was the one and only MF or Magic Fountain, also in Summit on Morris Avenue. Here Nora and Maeve both ordered Cookie Dough with Nora opting for a wafer cone and Maeve for a sugar cone. Our critics gave MF respectable marks of 2/great for creaminess, texture and sweetness but it did not excel in any areas and suffered from the same inferior cones as Home Plate and Ricky's. The overall score? A 2.5 bringing MF in squarely in between Ricky's and Home Plate.

The results:

1st place- Ricky's for its marvelous toppings and unparalleled sweetness
2nd place- Magic Fountain which is just plain great if you ignore the cones
3rd place- Home Plate Dairy just couldn't compete

Stay tuned as the girls continue their efforts and strive to maintain this rigorous schedule of tastings in the Official Ice Cream Survey Part II: Maine and the Official Ice Cream Survey Part III: The Hamptons!

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Another whirlwind weekend northward

We set out for Vermont around 9 a.m. last Friday, stopping at Melick's in Oldwick on our way to pick up peaches as an offering to Will and Martha who we would be staying with for the weekend. We ended up with both yellow and white varieties as well as yellow sugar plums and a cantaloupe that Sylvain insisted on. This is our fifth July trip to Vermont and it has become a tradition to arrive bearing peaches. This time I started wondering why. Surely they have decent peaches in Vermont! Did this all begin with a misunderstanding? What if they don't even want peaches? Is it time to stop the insanity?!

By late morning we arrived at Jamie's in High Falls for a planned pit stop of a swim and lunch. It was another humid day in the 90s and we headed to the falls and enjoyed a long swim in the beautiful, deep river. After a quick change into dry clothes it was off to the Egg's Nest, a quirky-artsy-roadside-New York State kind of place and Huston's favorite eatery. The inside was quite something - no surface or space had escaped the artist's hand!




I thoroughly enjoyed a pesto and sun-dried tomato quesadilla that really hit the spot, and Jamie had the fish and chips accompanied by cole slaw and, with a nod to lingering hippies, a huge slab of banana bread. Nora had chicken fingers (no comment) and chips ("These are French fries???? What a rip off!") and Sylvain had the Greek Praeseux (pronounced "Pray Sue"), a baked tortilla topped with spinach, mushrooms, mozzarella, ricotta and feta. Sylvain, always a sucker for even the most half-hearted attempt at marketing, ordered a "Batman" to accompany his meal - seltzer with grenadine and orange juice.

After lunch we dropped off Jamie and continued north with a quick drop off of the fruit before continuing on to Keewaydin to pick up Thibault for dinner at the highly-recommended American Flatbread in Middlebury. During the week this is essentially a wholesale bakery that cranks out organic flatbread in a big wood-fired oven. On Friday and Saturday nights they open for dinner and serve a choice of salads, pizzas and desserts. We had been warned about the wait. There are several areas designed for waiting, indoors and out, plus a bar and a good supply of board games. This is not New Jersey. People deal with it. So did we and eventually we had a great, simple meal of a couple of house salads with greens, wakame and sesame seeds and a couple of pizzas - one tomato and cheese and the other maple sausage and herb.


We devoured everything in sight and agreed that next time we need to dine without a curfew - Thibault was due back at camp no later than 9 p.m. leaving no time for any of the nice-looking desserts we saw passing by. We delivered him just in the nick of time.

Will and Martha are the ultimate hosts and always feed us well when we visit but we especially enjoy the big farm breakfasts! Saturday morning was Martha's tasty, strong coffee, thick slab bacon with eggs and English muffins. I truly had the best poached egg ever, which Will modestly attributed to the quality of the eggs. They were incredible - local multi-hued eggs from (if I heard correctly) Korean hens.

The next morning I accompanied him down the road to a neighboring dairy farm to purchase fresh raw organic whole milk. The cows were being milked when we arrived and the milk was fed from their teats into pipes that in turn led into what looked like a huge ice chest. The cute farmer had a gold cow earring in one ear. His wife scooped out milk from the chest in a big plastic pitcher for us and poured it into our quart jars. Back at the house, Will cooked up a batch of corn flap jacks and we were ready to hit the road again for home. Wow.



http://www.melickstownfarm.com/















Thursday, July 17, 2008

Friends Who Feed Me

Friends who feed me are in a special category. For years after we had the Cafe, it seemed that no one invited us over to eat and if they did, each dish was accompanied by a disclaimer about the food. I recognize that it is intimidating to cook for a chef, even one who specializes in home-style "cuisine de femme," but I think that because I do cook, I appreciate their efforts even more.

Melissa and Hafnaoui
In late June we were the happy guests at an Algerian mechoui at the home of friends Melissa and Hafnaoui. A mechoui features lamb slow-cooked on a spit over an open fire. The lamb went on at 11 a.m. that morning and was still turning and being basted with an olive oil and rosemary marinade when we arrived around 4 p.m. Now if this were France the men tending the beast would have started drinking promptly at 11. Even though the cooks did not imbibe in alcohol, things did get a little boisterous later on as some of the key players in the production jostled each other for the most desirable pieces of meat.


As a veritable mechoui veteran by now, I should be used to and flattered when a stranger rips off a good morsel with his bare hands and then hands it to me to be eaten. That's what I get for hanging around admiring the beast! And it was so good.

Dinner consisted of the lamb (of course), grilled chicken, halal turkey hot dogs, Hafnaoui's amazing hummus and tabouli, various other salads and an assortment of incredible, home-made sweet nut and honey phyllo pastries plus everything provided by the many guests. We partook to capacity and enjoyed every bit of it - what a treat!

Alyson
More recently I spent a wonderful, relaxed evening with Melissa and Alyson down the road. The occasion was the proper celebration of Melissa's birthday that had passed unnoticed amid the chaos following the removal of Caroline's tonsils (her youngest). We sat on the deck as night fell and the fire flies came out. It was a really thick and dark New Jersey summer night but with little of the traditional humidity.


Alyson cooked up one of her amazing rich desserts, this time a berry shortcake with obscene mounds of whipped cream. Melissa brought chocolate-dipped strawberries. I got off easily with a bottle of Mumm Cordon Rouge that has been waiting in the fridge for many months for just such an opportunity! We talked and laughed and told stories by candlelight - I feel so lucky to have found these ladies.

Liz and John
The same weekend we had dinner with Liz and John in their great new place in Brookside - a beautiful old home on Main Street next to the post office and across from the Community Club. It is always a pleasure to hang out with these two and this was a rare evening in that we were without children. We sat on the back patio in the garden and enjoyed chilled prosecco. Through the backyard I could see the old house where I grew up down the road. I forget how close everything is in Brookside. It felt good to be back.



Dinner was simple and so good - my favorite kind of meal. Big pieces of chicken marinated in yoghurt, lemon and herbs, skewered with chunks of red peppers and red onions and grilled over charcoal. This was served with a really garlicky cucumber sauce, white rice and a salad of mixed greens tossed with Liz's vinaigrette. I love that vinaigrette. Dessert was coconut and raspberry sorbets.

In this crazy world, cooking and sharing food with family and friends has become a lost art along with letter writing and telling time. When I break bread with friends it is almost like stepping out of time and into an altogether different and welcome zone. Thank you!