Tuesday, September 2, 2008

The Official Ice Cream Survey Part III: The Hamptons



The Candy Kitchen has been around since before forever, in fact I don’t remember a time without it. That’s because it opened in 1925, long before my time in the Hamptons began in 1961! If any improvements have been made since then, they have been subtle ones. Anything more would certainly elicit an angry outcry from the community. In an area that has seen such dramatic change over the years, it is reassuring to have a spot where time stands still.

Fortunately for our judges, what the Candy Kitchen does best is ice cream. They make their own from a few basic ingredients; cream, whole milk, egg yolks, sugar and natural flavoring. They offer about twelve flavors at a time with classics like vanilla, mint chocolate chip, coffee chip and rum raisin as well as coconut and fresh fruit in season. Everyone has a favorite - Dad always orders Rum Raisin, Jamie is stuck on Coconut and Sylvain on Coffee.




The Ice Cream Survery Part III required that our judges make multiple trips to the Candy Kitchen for a thorough product evaluation. In fact, Maeve and Nora each made three trips over the course of the week and only one of them together! Maeve sampled Mint Chocolate Chip, Chocolate Chocolate Chip and Chocolate. When recently reached for comment she exclaimed, "It was awesome!" Nora had Cookie Dough twice and Chocolate Chocolate Chip on her last visit. Huston sampled Chocolate Choclate Chip at least twice to my knowledge.



What kind of survey only tests ice cream from one location you may ask. We truly intended to compare the Bridgehampton Carvel, two spots in Sag Harbor and maybe even a gelato shop in Southampton but we kept being drawn back to the Candy Kitchen. For us it really is the only place to get ice cream. Other places may make ice cream that hits the spot, but surely none will endure for generations or ever hold a place in anyone's heart.


Peach Ice Cream from the Candy Kitchen
1 dozen peaches
5 egg yolks
2 lbs. sugar
3 cups heavy cream
1-1/2 cups milk
inch of salt

Put peaches in hot water to loosen skins and peel them easily. Peel, slice, pit and combine peaches with sugar. Mix and mash until thoroughly blended. Combine all ingredients in a crank freezer and mix in the general method used for making ice cream.


I'm guessing that if you halve the recipe, it will fit in a smaller home ice cream maker.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Ahhh, but no survey of ice cream is complete until the test has included Graeters Ice Cream in Cincinnati. A blind tasting, minus peculiarities of confection associated with regional fetishes, usually leaves this contender with one arm raised. A geographical ice cream prejudice, perhaps, but an open challenge nonetheless.